From: "Farkas, Andrew L." < 1=1=>
To:
<jeevacation®gmail.com>
Subject: Fw: Burger Safari
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 02:52:53 +0000
For your reading pleasure.
Original Message
From: Farkas, Andrew L.
To: Farkas, Andrew L.;
;
<
Farkas, Robin; Levy, Robert; Flynn, James; Larsen, Michael; Weil, Andrew; Ginsberg, Justin;
; Farkas, Sandi;
Schnitzer, Marc; Garner, Charles;
Frank; Aston, Jim; Carleton, George; Cohen, Jeffrey; Hughson, Paul;
Lieber, Robert
Sent: Thu Sep 09 22:52:22 2010
Subject: Burger Safari
Tonight I went on a nyc burger tasting tour with Steve Hanson, CEO of BR Guest, one of the
more popular and successful concept restaurant companies in the US. The objective was to find
the best burger experience in new york. It was a ball. Some of you have read the reviews of
my past burger adventures. For others, this will be a first. If you are bored and looking for
some simple entertainment, read on.
The rules are simple. Only one or two bites per burger, rate the overall experience, then
move to the next venue. Simple. Below are chronicled our experiences:
1) We started at JG Melons, a favorite upper east side haunt. We ordered 2 cheeseburgers, one
medium rare and one medium. And a bowl of cottage fries. I had forgotten how great this place
was. A perfect hole-in-the wall, cozy, old home style bar/restaurant where 80% of the food
sold is burgers and cottage fries. The burger exhibited true greatness. Served piping hot.
The american cheese perfectly melted so that it basically coalesced with the soft bun so that
the entire pile of meaty goodness became a single unit, not just component parts. The outside
of the burger had a slight crunch and the inside was hot, juicy, and extremely flavorful.
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There was no difference between the medium and the medium rare -- I don't think they care.
They ask how you want it, and then they just make it and serve it however it comes out. But
it doesn't matter. It's awesome. A solid 9.
2) Next stop was 5 napkin burger. I had never had one of these before. We sat at the bar. I
did not like the vibe inside. It didn't feel at all like a burger joint, more like a
restaurant/bar that served burgers as a menu choice. Surprising for a place that calls
itself, "5 napkin burger." My place was set with a steak knife and a LINEN NAPKIN. Of course
you need 5 napkins. Linen is non-absorbant. If III had a paper napkin, one (maybe two) would
have sufficed. So the "5 napkin" thing is a bit of a fallacy/self-fulfilling prophecy. That
said, the burger was very solid. The outside had the prerequisite crunch and the meat was
juicy and very tasty. A little coarser then JG Melon and so you could definitely
differentiate the parts (unlike JG that melts into that single unit). This was exacerbated by
the brioche bun (never my favorite, but this one was on the softer side and thus worked well
for me). The meat was slightly salted which I liked - didn't love, but liked well enough.
III not sure why III mentioning it other than I noticed it. The cheese was well positioned
and melted (ie it melted evenly over the entire patty - which was thick - thicker than I
usually like, but this was very well done here) and the whole thing was served hot and well
presented. I liked it much more then I expected and would definitely return to eat a whole
one. But the vibe in the restaurant still puts me off. I don't know. III giving the burger an
8 and taking off an additional .5 point for the vibe and .5 for the linen napkin. III a
traditionalist. Rating: 7.0
3) Next stop - the burger joint at the meridien hotel. It's 7:45 on a thursday night and the
line is out the door. And that's just the line in which you have to stand to place your
order! Now I have eaten here many many times. It's my wife's favorite burger. I like it - but
not as much as I like her (and not as much as she likes the burger). The space is great -
it's a dump and WANTS to be a dump. Burgers only. Very honest and real. Nothing else. Except
fries, shakes, beer, soda and brownies. It's a pure burger joint (hence the name - ain't I
clever). I love the experience. You order according to their instructions - and better
get it right or the people waiting in the endless line behind you start to riot. They serve
it wrapped in a wax covered sheet of paper (which is almost as good as shake shack which, in
my book provides the best delivery medium ever invented for a burger - the little wax bag).
The burger is usually a little dry for my taste and no matter how you order it, it is always
served the same (regardless of whether you order it rare, medium or well). The cheese is
often not well melted, though the whole combo works nicely primarily because of the
experience. The fries, however, are heaven. Better perhaps (dare I say it) then the gold
standard McDonald's fry. And they're served in a small brown paper bag through which the oil
in which they are fried soaks and creates a translucent glow (did that sentence structure
work?). They're hot and awesome; crunchy outside and soft hot inside. But the "piece de
resistance" is the burger joint chocolate shake. The best ever anywhere. Period. End of
story. Now, to recap, the burger is fine - nothing distinguished in my opinion - beyond the
delivery medium of course. BUT, the combo of the experience of the venue, the burger itself,
and the world class fries all juxtaposed against, and in concert with the ambrosia that is
that shake, well, it's a very tough formula to beat. But since this is a burger experience
review with material emphasis on the burger, III giving it an 8.5.
4) Five Guys. To me the burger mecca of the east coast. The maestro and my partner in crime
(Steve Hanson) had proclaimed his indifference to this burger prior to our arrival. In fact,
from him emanated a casual contempt for the venue and the product. Of course I took this as a
personal affront and was determined to convert him from heresy to true belief. Now the venue
is awful. In fact, it is an affront to the senses (yes, I know I have now used that word
twice in just three sentences, but it's the only word that works). That means that the burger
at Five Guys has to work harder than the mere mortal burger to distinguish itself. Some of
you may have read my original commentary on the perfection that is the Five Guys burger. If
you missed it, please write in and I'll be happy to send you the original manuscript.
Suffice it to say that Maestro Hanson had to lay down arms and surrender to the siren's song
of burger perfection. Forget the fries. Forget the drinks. Forget the venue, atmosphere and
everything else. They have nothing worth discussing. The burger, however. Ohhhh that burger.
We each had the single patty (I think it works better than their two patty model)
cheeseburger. All of their burgers are served well done - they advertise that and don't even
ask for your preference. We topped them with ketchup, mayo, onion and jalapenos. And, dear
readers, Maestro Hanson almost cried when I denied him the opportunity to go back for a
second burger. Yes, burger fans, this was the one we devoured in its entirety, and still
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wanted more. Awesome perfect burger junk food. It makes no apologies and offers no pretense.
Go there. Now. Rating: 9.25. We deduct .75 because it's got zero atmosphere, the fries are no
good and there's nothing interesting to drink.
Look, a burger is junk food. There is no such thing as a healthy burger. And it's not
supposed to be fancy or delicate. It is not to be served with linen or presented with
silverware. It's a burger! And this city has the best of the best. The ratings above are like
angels dancing on the head of a pin. Those that we reviewed here are all top 10. So is Shake
Shack and a few others that require no real discussion. AND it is very much a matter of
personal preference. But the bottom line is that the purest form of the art is still at 5
Guys. JG Melon is a different experience, but a very close second. And Shake Shack, The
Burger Joint, 5 Napkin, etc are great too. But someone has to win.
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